Where: Vallese - Aosta Valley
Technical level: mountaineering level 3
Physical condition: mountaineering level 3
Duration: 2 days
Dates: on request
Period: from mid-June to end of mid-September. The Hornli Refuge reservation for the normal Swiss route has to be made well in advance.
Meeting point: to be agreed on
The alpinist’s dream: if someone were to ask you to draw a mountain, you would probably sketch a pyramid with a solid, wide base and a pointed summit soaring into the sky. This is just what the Matterhorn is: the perfect mountain!
Its Swiss face was conquered by Edward Whymper on the 14th of July,1865. A few days later an Italian team led by Jean-Antoine Carrel climbed the Italian face.
Normal Italian Route - Cresta del Leone:
Cervinia – off-road vehicle to the Duca degli Abruzzi Refuge (Oriondé) – Colle del Leone – Carrel Bivi/Refuge (3,829mt)
Tot. rise 1,000mt - drop 0mt. TM 4/5 h.
Carrel Bivi/Refuge (3,829mt) –Tyndall Peak (4,241mt) – Matterhorn – return to Cervinia
Tot. rise 750mt - drop 1,750mt. TM 10 h.
Normal Swiss Route - Hornli Ridge:
Zermatt – Schwarzsee cable car – Hornli Refuge (3,260mt)
Tot. rise 700mt - TM 2h.
Hornli Refuge (3,260mt) – Solvay Hutte – Matterhorn – return to Zermatt
Tot. rise 1,200mt - drop 1,900mt. TM 10 h.
Requested technical level: this mixed-ground itinerary requires a fair experience on rock. It presents no particular technical difficulties but good training and physical condition is necessary. The strenuousness of the descent should not be taken lightly.
The programme is subject to modification or interruption at the discretion of the Alpine Guide if participants’ technical abilities prove inadequate or adverse weather conditions occur.
Cost: € 1200 each (1 person per Guide)
Fee includes: Alpine Guide assistance and expenses, group materials.
Fee does not include: Cervinia/Oriondé off-road vehicle transfer, Schwarrzsee cable car, refuge full board and any item not specified in “Fee includes”.
The Guide’s refuge full board, off-road transfer and cable car expenses are debited to participants.
If itinerary changes occur which are not attributable to the organisers (e.g. bad weather, inadequate technical ability of participants, etc.) any extra costs incurred will be debited to participants.
The Hornli Refuge reservation for the usual Swiss route has to be made well in advance.
Enrolments are accepted on a non-refundable 30% down payment of total cost. The balance must be paid before the beginning of activities.
Valtournenche Monte Cervino - l’Escursionista ed. 1:25000
Swiss map Matterrhorn 1:25000
Bring the bare minimum, a backpack is a must!!!!
Backpack max. 35 lt
PERSONAL TECHNICAL MATERIALS
Pick 60cm max.
Crampons with anti-balling snow plate
High mountain boots adapted to crampons (semi-rigid sole in Vibram)
WHAT TO WEAR
Glacier/high altitude sun glasses
Transpiring fibre T-shirt
Turtleneck fibre top
Wind-stopper or polar fleece jacket
Waterproof jacket (e.g. Gore-tex, pac-lite, conduit…)
Schoeller mountain trousers
INSIDE YOUR BACKPACK
Extra pair of light gloves
Head torch with new batteries
Waterproof over-trousers (e.g. Gore-tex, pac-lite, conduit, k-way)
1lt thermos or flask
Swiss army knife
Toothpaste, toothbrush, soap
Sleeping bag liner